Prerequisites
This lesson is part of the safety section of the RYA Competent Crew course and assumes no previous sailing experience. You should:
- Know the basic parts of a yacht: deck, cockpit, companionway, mast, shrouds, guardwires (lifelines), stanchions, pulpit and pushpit.
- Know port, starboard, windward (the side the wind blows onto) and leeward (the sheltered side).
- Be able to tie a bowline and clip and unclip a carabiner-type hook (from the ropework lesson).
- Meet the course entry requirements: age 16 or over for the standard certificate, medical declaration completed, and enough fitness to move about a moving yacht. Swimming is not mandatory for Competent Crew, but tell your instructor if you are a non-swimmer.
Learning Objectives
This lesson covers the personal safety strand of the RYA Competent Crew practical syllabus (safety equipment and procedures: lifejackets, buoyancy aids, safety harnesses, clothing) and the safety briefing the skipper gives aboard. By the end of this lesson you should be able to:
- Explain the difference between a buoyancy aid and a lifejacket, and what the Newton rating means (RYA syllabus: types and use of personal buoyancy).
- Put on, adjust and check a lifejacket correctly, including the crotch or thigh straps, and check an inflatable lifejacket's firing mechanism and service date (RYA syllabus: fit and maintain lifejackets).
- State what extra items a lifejacket should carry (whistle, light, retroreflective tape, spray hood, PLB or AIS beacon) and why.
- Know when lifejackets and harnesses must be worn aboard, and explain the skipper's responsibility for the rule.
- Fit a safety harness, choose the right tether, and clip on to jackstays and strong points using the correct protocol, never being unattached on deck (RYA syllabus: use of harness and jackstays).
- Choose clothing and footwear for sailing using the layering system, and explain why cotton is dangerous.
- Recognise the early effects of cold, cold water shock and hypothermia on yourself and others, and say what to do if you fall in.
- Describe how to look after personal gear, protect yourself from sun and dehydration, and cope with seasickness on watch.
Why Personal Safety Equipment Matters
Most sailing deaths in UK waters involve someone in the water: falling from a yacht, from a tender, or from a pontoon. The two killers are drowning (often within the first few minutes, caused by cold water shock and waves) and hypothermia (over a longer period). Personal safety equipment addresses both:
- Staying aboard is the best defence: a harness and tether keep you attached to the boat, so you cannot go over the side.
- Floating face-up if you do go in: a properly fitted lifejacket keeps your airway clear even if you are unconscious or exhausted.
- Staying warm: the right clothing keeps you functioning on deck and buys survival time if you are immersed.
The philosophy is simple: one hand for yourself, one for the boat, and if you cannot fall off, you cannot drown.
Buoyancy: Lifejackets vs Buoyancy Aids
Buoyancy is measured in Newtons (N), the force pushing you upwards. 10 N is roughly the upward force of 1 kg of flotation, so a 150 N lifejacket gives about 15 kg of lift. The diagram below explains what a 150 N rating means in practice.
The European standard (ISO 12402) classes personal flotation devices by buoyancy:
| Rating | Type | Intended use |
|---|---|---|
| 50 N | Buoyancy aid | Sheltered water, competent swimmers, help close at hand (dinghies, kayaks). Will not turn you face-up. |
| 100 N | Lifejacket (basic) | Sheltered or calm water. May not turn an unconscious person wearing heavy clothing face-up. |
| 150 N | Lifejacket | Offshore and coastal sailing, rough weather. Turns most unconscious people face-up, even in foul-weather gear. The standard for yacht crew. |
| 275 N | Lifejacket | Offshore in extreme conditions, heavy protective clothing or tools. |
The diagram below compares a lifejacket with a buoyancy aid. Note that the diagram groups 50 to 100 N together for simplicity; under the standard, a 100 N device is classed as a basic lifejacket, but it still does not give the reliable face-up turning of a 150 N jacket.
The key difference is the collar. A lifejacket's buoyancy is concentrated high on the chest and behind the head, so it rolls the wearer onto their back with the mouth and nose clear of the water. A buoyancy aid spreads foam around the torso to help a conscious swimmer float, but leaves an unconscious person face-down.
On a cruising yacht you wear a 150 N (or higher) lifejacket.
Inflatable vs Foam Lifejackets
Most yacht lifejackets are inflatable: a flat, comfortable collar containing a folded bladder, a CO2 gas cylinder and a firing mechanism. They come in two types:
- Manual: inflates only when you pull the toggle (the "jerk to inflate" handle).
- Automatic: inflates on immersion as well as by the toggle. Older types use a bobbin (a paper or salt tablet that dissolves in water and releases a spring); newer types use a hydrostatic firing head that only fires when submerged about 10 cm, so it is not set off by spray or rain.
Every inflatable also has an oral inflation tube to top it up by mouth. Foam lifejackets need no maintenance and cannot fail to inflate, but are bulky; they are often used for children and on commercial boats.
On a yacht, automatic inflation is strongly preferred: if you hit your head as you go over, you cannot pull a toggle.
Lifejacket Standards, Accessories and Servicing
Standards and marking
Lifejackets for recreational craft carry the standard they were tested to on the jacket or its label: ISO 12402-4 (100 N), ISO 12402-3 (150 N) and ISO 12402-2 (275 N), together with a UKCA or CE mark. A jacket without a standard marking is not acceptable for yacht use. Check the weight range of the wearer on the label: a small child or a large adult may need a different jacket from the standard adult size.
In the UK there is no general law that makes you wear a lifejacket on a private yacht, but the skipper has a legal and moral duty of care and must ensure that suitable lifejackets are carried for everyone aboard, in good condition and properly fitted. Commercial and charter yachts working to MCA codes have stricter rules.
Fittings that make a lifejacket work
A lifejacket intended for offshore use should have, firmly attached:
- A whistle, to attract attention, mounted where you can reach it with the jacket inflated.
- A light, ideally a water-activated LED, so that rescuers can find you at night.
- Retroreflective tape (SOLAS grade) on the shoulders and collar so that a searchlight picks you out.
- A sprayhood, which protects the face from spray and breaking waves and prevents drowning from spray inhalation, especially in a seaway.
- A lifting becket or loop, so that you can be lifted aboard with a halyard or lifting strop.
- A crotch strap or thigh straps, as already covered.
- A harness integrated into the jacket (most offshore jackets), with a chest D-ring or webbing loop for the tether. The harness webbing and attachments must match the standard ISO 12401.
Optional but strongly recommended offshore: a personal locator beacon (PLB) or AIS man overboard beacon, stowed in a pocket on the jacket and tested at the start of every season. A PLB transmits on 406 MHz to satellites and gives rescue authorities your position; an AIS beacon transmits an alert to your own boat and others within a few miles. Never assume the boat will see you go overboard, especially at night.
Care and servicing
- Before each season, inspect the jacket: look at the fabric for cuts and abrasion, the stitching and buckles, and the cover. Inflate it by mouth (using the oral inflation tube) and leave it for 24 hours to check that it holds its pressure.
- Every season, weigh the gas cylinder. The weight must match the figure stamped on it (check the manufacturer's instructions); if it is light, it has leaked.
- Check the firing mechanism, and replace the bobbin or cartridge by the date marked.
- Rinse in fresh water after use, dry away from direct sun and heat, and re-pack according to the diagram on the jacket. Never fold it in a way that traps the cylinder or the firing head.
- Store in a dry, ventilated place, not in a locker where it can be crushed or exposed to bilge water.
- Service annually (or as the manufacturer advises), by an approved service agent or by following the manufacturer's step-by-step guide.
Fitting a Lifejacket
A lifejacket that is loose, or worn without its crotch strap, can kill. When it inflates in the water, all that buoyancy wants to rise. If the jacket is not held down onto your body, it rides up over your head, leaving your face in the water or, worse, you slipping out beneath it.
The diagram below shows the parts you must check when fitting.
Fitting Procedure
- Check it first. Look through the inspection window or check the indicator (see below), check the cylinder is screwed in hand-tight, check the service date, and check the webbing and buckles are undamaged.
- Put it on over your outer layer (your foul-weather jacket), like a waistcoat, with the collar behind your neck and the buckle at the front.
- Fasten the waist buckle and pull the strap tight. You should be able to get no more than two fingers between the strap and your body. If it feels comfortable after a day's sailing, it is probably too loose.
- Fasten the crotch strap or thigh straps and adjust them snug. Not optional: this is what stops the jacket riding up.
- Check the extras: the whistle is attached on its lanyard, the light (if fitted) works, the sprayhood (if fitted) is stowed in its pocket, and the reflective tape is intact.
- Find the toggle. Put your hand on the inflation toggle with your eyes closed, so you can find it in the water.
- Pair check. Get a crewmate to check your straps, and check theirs.
Say your checks aloud as you dress: "Indicator green, waist tight, crotch strap on, whistle present." Examiners look for this habit, and it makes you do it every time.
Riding Up: Why Fit Matters
The diagram below shows what happens to a loose jacket on immersion compared with a correctly tightened one.
And the next diagram shows why the crotch strap is non-negotiable: buoyancy pushes the jacket upwards, and only the strap through the legs anchors it to your body.
Many centres will let you jump into the water (in a pool or alongside, supervised) wearing a lifejacket. If you get the chance, do it: you will never wear one loose again.
Checking an Inflatable
Many inflatable lifejackets have a status indicator: a small window or tab showing green when the cylinder is fully screwed in and the firing mechanism is armed, and red when it has been fired, is loose or needs re-arming. The diagram below shows what each state means.
Further checks:
- Cylinder: screwed in hand-tight and not corroded. Some cylinders loosen with vibration, and a loose cylinder will not fire properly.
- Bobbin or firing head: within its expiry date (printed on it). Bobbins typically need replacing every 1 to 3 years, or after getting very wet.
- Service date: inflatables should be professionally serviced, or at least inflated and checked for leaks, annually, according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- After firing: replace the cylinder and the bobbin or cartridge with the correct re-arming kit before using the jacket again.
If anything is wrong, do not wear it: get another and tell the skipper.
When to Wear a Lifejacket
The skipper decides, but common rules are:
- At night, in fog or poor visibility, in rough weather or when reefed.
- When going forward on deck in anything other than calm conditions.
- When in the tender (dinghy), always.
- Whenever you are alone on deck.
- Non-swimmers and children: at all times on deck.
- Whenever you feel you want to. Never feel embarrassed to wear one; many skippers require them at all times.
Safety Harnesses and Tethers
A lifejacket helps you after you go in. A harness keeps you from going in at all. On most modern yachts the harness is built into the lifejacket: a webbing harness with a strong D-ring (or pair of rings) at the chest, inside the lifejacket cover.
The diagram below shows the D-ring position and the fitting checks.
Harness Fitting
- Wear it snug over your outer clothing, adjusted so the D-ring sits high on the chest.
- Webbing must not be twisted; buckles fully engaged and doubled back where required.
- Clip only to the D-ring designed for it, never to a strap, a lifejacket buckle or your wrist or ankle. Those cannot take the shock load of a fall, and a tether on a limb can break it.
Tethers
A tether is a short length of webbing with a hook at each end: the boat end clips to the jackstay or a strong point; the body end clips to your D-ring. Most have:
- A safety hook (self-locking carabiner) at each end, that cannot open by twisting.
- Often a quick-release at the body end, so you can unclip yourself if trapped under a capsized boat or being dragged.
- An overload indicator: stitching that tears to show the tether has taken a shock load and must be replaced.
- Double tethers: a three-hook tether with one short (about 1 m) and one long (about 2 m) leg.
The longer the tether, the further you fall before it stops you, and the faster you are moving when it does. A tether that lets you reach the leeward guardwires and go over them means you can be dragged in the water alongside a moving boat, which is a very dangerous position. The diagram below compares a 1 m tether with a 3 m tether.
Rule of thumb: use the short (1 m) leg when working on deck. The 2 m leg gives reach for moving around the cockpit or being clipped on while helming, but should be clipped to a point that stops you reaching the far side.
Jackstays and Strong Points
Jackstays (or jacklines) are lengths of flat webbing or wire running along each side deck from the cockpit to the bow, attached at each end to strong fittings. You clip your tether to them and walk the full length of the deck without unclipping. The diagram below shows their typical layout.
Points to know:
- Flat webbing is preferred to wire, because wire rolls underfoot.
- Jackstays should be rigged before departure (not when it is already rough) and run inboard enough that a person clipped on cannot fall over the side.
- Cockpit strong points (U-bolts, padeyes) let you clip on before leaving the companionway and while sitting in the cockpit.
- Guardwires and stanchions are not strong points. Never clip to them, nor to cleats, winches, or anything not designed to take a fall.
- Webbing degrades in sunlight. Jackstays are typically replaced every three to five years, or sooner if faded, stiff or chafed.
Clipping Protocol
The rules:
- Clip on before you leave the companionway, to a strong point near the hatch. Clip on before you come up.
- Stay clipped on the whole time you are on deck.
- Move along the windward side deck where possible, keeping low, using handholds.
- At an obstruction, clip the second tether hook beyond it before unclipping the first. You are never without at least one attachment.
- When returning below, unclip only once you are inside the companionway.
The diagram below shows the double-tether protocol step by step.
The danger of single clipping (unclipping, moving past the obstruction, then re-clipping) is that you have a window of a couple of seconds attached to nothing. The diagram below shows that vulnerability.
When to Clip On
Common skipper's rules:
- At night, always on deck.
- In rough weather or when reefed.
- When going forward of the cockpit at sea.
- When alone on deck.
- Whenever the skipper says so, and whenever you feel the need.
Note that a harness can be a hazard if the boat is sinking or capsized. Know how to unclip quickly (the quick release on the body end).
Clothing
The Layering System
You will be wet, cold and in the wind more than you expect, even in summer. Several thin layers trap more warm air than one thick one, and let you add or remove warmth as conditions change. The diagram below shows the three-layer system.
| Layer | Job | Materials |
|---|---|---|
| Base layer | Wicks sweat away from skin, keeping it dry | Synthetic thermal (polypropylene, polyester) or merino wool |
| Mid layer | Insulation: traps warm air, still warm when damp | Fleece, wool, synthetic insulated jacket |
| Outer layer | Keeps wind and water out, lets sweat vapour escape | Breathable waterproof jacket (high collar, hood, cuffs) and salopettes or trousers |
Add a hat (up to a third of heat loss can be from an uncovered head in the cold), gloves for rope work, and, in summer, sunglasses with a retaining cord, sunscreen and a sun hat. Sunburn and dehydration are also hazards.
Dress warmer than you think before going on watch: it is much easier to take a layer off than to warm up again once cold, and you may not be able to go below to change.
Cotton Kills
Cotton (including jeans and cotton sweatshirts) absorbs a large amount of water, holds it against your skin and loses almost all its insulation when wet. As the wind blows over wet cotton, evaporation pulls heat from your body. The diagram below shows the comparison.
The next diagram traces how a soaked cotton T-shirt on a sunny day can progress to hypothermia as the wind rises.
Rule: if your base or mid layers get wet, go below (with the skipper's agreement) and change into dry synthetics or wool. Do not wait until you are shivering.
Footwear
You need grip on wet, sloping decks, and toe protection from dropped winch handles and swinging blocks. The diagram below shows approved and banned footwear.
- Deck shoes with non-marking, siped (finely grooved) rubber soles for warm, settled weather.
- Sailing boots (rubber or breathable) for wet and cold weather, worn with trousers over the top so water does not run in.
- Never: flip-flops, smooth-soled trainers, black-soled shoes (they mark decks) or heavy work boots. Bare feet risk broken toes on deck fittings.
Cold, Cold Water Shock and Hypothermia
You need to recognise the effects of cold so that you can protect yourself and spot a crewmate in trouble.
- Cold water shock happens in the first minute or two of sudden immersion in water below about 15 degrees C (UK sea temperatures are below this for most of the year). It causes an involuntary gasp (which can inhale water), hyperventilation and a sharp rise in heart rate and blood pressure. A lifejacket keeps your head up while this passes. Try to float still, holding on, and control your breathing.
- Swimming failure follows within 10 to 30 minutes as cold muscles stop working. Do not try to swim to the boat or shore unless very close: stay with your flotation.
- Hypothermia (core temperature below 35 degrees C) takes longer in the water but can also develop on deck in cold, wet, windy conditions.
Signs of developing hypothermia in a crewmate: shivering, clumsiness and fumbling, slurred speech, confusion or irritability, apathy, and later, stopping shivering (a serious sign). Report it to the skipper. Treatment aboard is to get them sheltered, out of wet clothes, into dry layers or a sleeping bag, and to give warm sweet drinks if they are fully conscious. Seasickness also makes people cold, apathetic and careless about clipping on: watch out for each other.
In the water: what to do if you fall in
If you fall overboard despite all precautions:
- Do not panic and do not swim hard. Cold water shock peaks in the first minute: keep your head up, breathe slowly and wait for the gasping to pass. Let the lifejacket hold you up.
- Float and signal. Use the whistle and the light, and wave. Do not remove clothing.
- Conserve heat. If you are alone, use the HELP position (Heat Escape Lessening Posture): knees drawn to the chest, arms clamped to the sides. It can reduce heat loss by up to about half. If several people are in the water, huddle together, which reduces heat loss by roughly a third.
- Stay where you are. Swimming wastes heat. The boat or a rescue craft will search at your last known position.
- Use the 1-10-1 rule as a guide: about one minute to get breathing under control, ten minutes of useful movement before muscles fail, and about an hour before unconsciousness from hypothermia (these times vary greatly with water temperature, body type and clothing).
The most important actions for the crew on deck are to shout "man overboard", point to the person, throw the lifebuoy, press the MOB button on the GPS and follow the MOB procedure taught in your next lessons. A proper lifejacket buys the time for them to do it.
After rescue, treat the casualty for hypothermia even if they say they feel fine: dry them, wrap them in warm dry layers and insulation, keep them horizontal (to avoid circulatory collapse), and call the Coastguard or MRCC if there is any doubt. Rapid rewarming by vigorous rubbing or hot baths is dangerous: warm gently.
Sun, Dehydration, Seasickness and Fatigue
The personal safety kit also protects you from slower dangers.
- Sun: reflection from the water doubles your exposure. Wear a hat with a chin strap, sunglasses with a retaining strap, long sleeves and high-factor sunscreen, reapplied every two hours and after getting wet.
- Dehydration and food: drink regularly (about 2 to 3 litres a day), even if you are not thirsty. A tired, dehydrated, hungry crew member makes mistakes and is more prone to seasickness and falls. Eat little and often.
- Seasickness: take medication before you feel sick (and before leaving harbour), get fresh air, look at the horizon, steer the boat if you can, and keep warm. A seasick crew member is at high risk of not clipping on or of falling overboard, so keep an eye on each other.
- Fatigue: sleep when you can. A tired person is clumsy and slow to react. Tell the skipper if you are exhausted.
- Alcohol: no alcohol on watch or before going on deck. It increases heat loss, worsens judgement and has been a factor in many drownings from tenders and pontoons.
Personal Gear Checklist
Before a day sail or passage, pack and check:
- Waterproof jacket and trousers (or salopettes), with a hood.
- Warm mid layer (fleece or wool) and a spare, plus synthetic base layers.
- Sailing boots or deck shoes with a non-slip sole, and thick socks.
- Hat, gloves (sailing gloves for rope work and warm gloves for the night), sunglasses and sun cream.
- Your own lifejacket and tether if you have them, or confirm what the boat provides and try it on early.
- A head torch with a red-light mode, a personal knife and a whistle (if not on the jacket).
- Medication, including seasickness tablets, and a note of any medical condition for the skipper.
- Two dry bags, one for clothes and one for valuables.
Worked Example
Going Forward to Help Drop the Headsail at Night
It is 2300, the wind is rising to Force 5, and the skipper asks you to go to the mast to help take in the hanked-on headsail. You are sitting in the cockpit.
The diagram below sets out the sequence step by step.
- Gear up. Your foul-weather jacket is zipped and hood up. Your lifejacket is over it. You check the indicator is green, the waist strap is tight with a two-finger gap and the crotch strap is fastened. You say it aloud.
- Clip to your D-ring. You clip the body end of your tether to your chest D-ring. You hear the click and tug it to check it is locked.
- Clip to the boat. Still sitting, you clip the short leg to the cockpit strong point, then to the windward jackstay. Check the hook is locked. Only now do you stand.
- Move forward. You go up the windward side deck, keeping low, one hand for the boat, the tether sliding along the jackstay behind you.
- Pass the obstruction. At the shrouds, the jackstay is led inside them and your tether cannot pass. You clip the second leg of your tether to the jackstay beyond the shrouds, then unclip the first leg and bring it forward. You were attached throughout.
- Work and return. At the mast you clip the short leg to the mast base strong point so you have both hands free with a tight tether. After the job, you return the same way and only unclip once you are back in the cockpit, clipped to the cockpit strong point, or below.
Worked Example: The Skipper's Safety Briefing
On joining a yacht the skipper should give a safety briefing before leaving the dock. As crew, expect and ask for these items:
- Lifejackets and harnesses: where they are stowed, how to fit them, when they must be worn and clipped on (for example, at night, in rough weather, alone on deck, forward of the mast), where the jackstays run and where the strong points are.
- Man overboard: who does what, the lifebuoy and light, the danger buoy, the MOB button on the GPS, and the recovery method (for example a lifting strop or lifesling).
- Fire and gas: extinguishers, fire blanket, gas shut-off.
- Abandon ship: liferaft stowage, grab bag, flares, EPIRB, how to use the VHF to send a Mayday.
- Seacocks and bilge pumps: where they are, how to operate them.
- Heads, stove and winch use: safety points the skipper wants you to know.
- Roles and watches: who is the skipper's deputy, who makes the radio call, and the seasickness policy.
An instructor or examiner will expect you to listen carefully, ask questions and repeat key points back. If you are not sure how an item works, ask now; asking in an emergency is too late.
What the Instructor Expects
On an RYA Competent Crew course the instructor will watch for:
- Putting on a lifejacket correctly the first time, without prompting, including the crotch strap and the whistle check.
- Checking the status indicator and the date on an inflatable lifejacket.
- Putting on a harness and adjusting it so that it is snug over the outer layer.
- Clipping on with the correct protocol, leaving the cockpit, moving along the windward side and keeping low.
- Wearing appropriate clothing and footwear and not turning up in cotton jeans or smooth-soled trainers.
- A willingness to say "I am cold" or "I am seasick" and to look after crewmates.
Common Mistakes
- Loose lifejacket. It rides up over your face. Tighten to a two-finger gap.
- No crotch strap. The jacket slips over your head. Always fasten it.
- Wearing an inflatable without checking it. A red indicator, loose cylinder or out-of-date bobbin means it may not inflate. Check before every wear.
- Clipping on after leaving the cockpit. Clip on from inside the companionway before going on deck.
- Single clipping past obstructions. Use the double-tether method: clip ahead, then unclip behind.
- Clipping to guardwires or cleats. They are not designed for fall loads. Use jackstays and strong points.
- Long tether on deck. You can reach and go over the far guardwires. Use the short leg.
- Tether on a wrist or ankle, or to the wrong part of the harness. Only the chest D-ring.
- Cotton clothing. Wet cotton chills you rapidly. Wear synthetics or wool, and change wet layers early.
- Going on watch under-dressed. Put the extra layer on before you come up.
Summary
- A buoyancy aid (50 N) helps a conscious swimmer in sheltered water; a 150 N lifejacket with a collar turns an unconscious person face-up and is the standard on yachts.
- Fit the lifejacket over your outer layer: waist strap tight (two-finger gap), crotch strap always on, whistle and light checked, toggle located.
- Check inflatables every time: indicator green, cylinder tight, firing head or bobbin in date, service date current.
- The harness D-ring is the only body attachment point; tethers clip to jackstays and strong points, never guardwires.
- Clip on before leaving the companionway, stay clipped on, use the windward side, clip ahead before unclipping behind, and use the short tether on deck.
- Dress in layers: wicking base, insulating mid, waterproof outer. No cotton. Grippy, non-marking footwear.
- Cold water shock and hypothermia are the killers after a fall overboard; recognise the signs in yourself and others.
Check Your Understanding
- What is the essential difference between a 50 N buoyancy aid and a 150 N lifejacket?
Answer: The lifejacket has more buoyancy, concentrated in a collar, so it turns an unconscious person face-up with the airway clear. A buoyancy aid only helps a conscious swimmer float and will not turn them over.
- Why is the crotch strap essential?
Answer: In the water the buoyancy forces the jacket upwards. Without the crotch strap it rides up over the head, leaving the face in the water or the wearer slipping out beneath it.
- How tight should the waist strap be?
Answer: Snug enough that you can fit no more than two fingers between the strap and your body.
- You pick up an inflatable lifejacket and its indicator shows red. What does this mean and what do you do?
Answer: It is not armed: the cylinder may be fired or loose, or the firing mechanism has been triggered or is faulty. Do not wear it; take another and tell the skipper so it can be re-armed or serviced.
- Where must you attach your tether on your body and on the boat?
Answer: On the body, only to the harness chest D-ring. On the boat, to a jackstay or a designated strong point, never to guardwires, stanchions or cleats.
- When should you clip on, and when should you unclip, when going on deck?
Answer: Clip on to a strong point before leaving the companionway, and unclip only once you are back in the cockpit or companionway in a protected position.
- Describe how to get past the shrouds when the jackstay passes inside them.
Answer: Clip the second tether leg to the jackstay beyond the obstruction first, then unclip the first leg. At least one hook is attached at all times.
- Why is a short (1 m) tether preferred for working on deck?
Answer: It limits how far you can fall before it stops you, reducing impact force, and stops you reaching or going over the opposite guardwires.
- Name the three clothing layers and the job of each.
Answer: Base layer wicks moisture from the skin; mid layer insulates by trapping warm air; outer layer keeps out wind and water while letting vapour escape.
- Why should you avoid cotton clothing on a yacht?
Answer: Cotton absorbs a lot of water, holds it against the skin and loses its insulation when wet; the wind then causes evaporative cooling, leading rapidly to hypothermia.
- Name four items that should be fitted to a lifejacket for offshore use, and say why each matters.
Answer: A whistle (to attract attention), a light (so you can be seen at night), retroreflective tape (so searchlights pick you out), and a sprayhood (to protect your face from spray and waves). A PLB, a lifting becket and the crotch strap are also valid answers.
- You fall overboard in 10 degrees C water. What are the first things you should do?
Answer: Do not panic: keep your head up and control your breathing while the cold water shock gasp passes. Let the lifejacket hold you up, use the whistle and light, keep your clothes on, adopt the HELP position, and stay where you are rather than swimming.